Difficulty
Easy
Steps
2
Time Required
5 minutes
Sections
1
- OSVR HDK 1.2 1.3 1.4 2 Faceplate Opening
- 2 steps
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BackOSVR HDK 1.3/1.4
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Removing faceplate screws
- Lay HDK headset face down on a soft surface. Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the bottom.
- If the screws do not easily unscrew, you may need to try a different screwdriver. They are quite small and precise, and in the 1.3 and later at least, seem to be a Phillips #00 (possibly just a #0 in 1.2), but if your screwdriver set is not exact, they are easy to strip. If the screws don’t turn, try another screwdriver.
Lay HDK headset face down on a soft surface. Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the bottom.
If the screws do not easily unscrew, you may need to try a different screwdriver. They are quite small and precise, and in the 1.3 and later at least, seem to be a Phillips #00 (possibly just a #0 in 1.2), but if your screwdriver set is not exact, they are easy to strip. If the screws don’t turn, try another screwdriver.
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Step 2
Opening faceplate
- Turn the headset upright.
- Behind the red box is a connector between a ribbon cable attached to the faceplate and a ribbon cable wrapped inside the body of the HMD. It’s taped together in addition to the force of the connection, but is still somewhat fragile, so when opening, this left side should be treated as the “hinge”.
- There are now only two pairs of magnets at the top in the corners holding the faceplate to the body of the HMD. (In the inside image, one of the faceplate magnets is not pictured.)
- There are two grooves on top, marked, to use in faceplate removal. Keeping in mind the minimal force holding the faceplate on, and the location of the faceplate connector, gently pull/fold the faceplate out and to the left. Do not use any tools for this step!
- Images show an OSVR HDK 1.4, HDK 1.2 and 1.3 internally look extremely similar. The main circuit board on the HDK 2 differs, but the basic opening procedure and tracking cables should be the same. The faceplate connector cable for the HDK 2 is different, less fragile, and does allow for easy disconnection/reconnection if desired.
- Avoid placing strain on the (1.x) connector highlighted in red: do not let the faceplate dangle from it or pull on it. If it disconnects internally, you will notice the IR tracking LEDs not lighting up. As long as the connector has not torn off, you can align and squeeze it gently to re-seat the connection and fix it; you’ll feel it click.
Turn the headset upright.
Behind the red box is a connector between a ribbon cable attached to the faceplate and a ribbon cable wrapped inside the body of the HMD. It’s taped together in addition to the force of the connection, but is still somewhat fragile, so when opening, this left side should be treated as the “hinge”.
There are now only two pairs of magnets at the top in the corners holding the faceplate to the body of the HMD. (In the inside image, one of the faceplate magnets is not pictured.)
There are two grooves on top, marked, to use in faceplate removal. Keeping in mind the minimal force holding the faceplate on, and the location of the faceplate connector, gently pull/fold the faceplate out and to the left. Do not use any tools for this step!
Images show an OSVR HDK 1.4, HDK 1.2 and 1.3 internally look extremely similar. The main circuit board on the HDK 2 differs, but the basic opening procedure and tracking cables should be the same. The faceplate connector cable for the HDK 2 is different, less fragile, and does allow for easy disconnection/reconnection if desired.
Avoid placing strain on the (1.x) connector highlighted in red: do not let the faceplate dangle from it or pull on it. If it disconnects internally, you will notice the IR tracking LEDs not lighting up. As long as the connector has not torn off, you can align and squeeze it gently to re-seat the connection and fix it; you’ll feel it click.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Ryan Pavlik
Member since: 12/31/2012
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