Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

11

Time Required

                          30 minutes

Sections

4

  • Ear Cushion
  • 3 steps
  • Speaker
  • 2 steps
  • Speaker Casing
  • 2 steps
  • Microphone
  • 4 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Ear Cushion
  • Grab the ear cushion between your thumb and forefinger.

Grab the ear cushion between your thumb and forefinger.

1024

Step 2

  • Pull the ear cushion away from the speaker by sliding down to release the cushion from the plastic covering.

Pull the ear cushion away from the speaker by sliding down to release the cushion from the plastic covering.

Step 3

  • Continue sliding downwards around all edges of the ear cushion until the cushion is fully removed.

Continue sliding downwards around all edges of the ear cushion until the cushion is fully removed.

Step 4

              Speaker
  • Use the broad edge of the plastic spudger and a lot of force to pop off the speaker from the headset.
  • Insert the plastic spudger in between the speaker and the headset directly in line with one of the exposed screws of the headset casing, since that is where the four clamps that hold the speaker to the headset are located. These clamps are not visible until after speaker removal.
  • Make sure to insert the spudger in between the foam buffer-ring and the headset casing instead of in between the speaker and the foam buffer-ring.
  • Reassembly may be tricky, there is one clamp smaller than others, so you have to align it correctly.

Use the broad edge of the plastic spudger and a lot of force to pop off the speaker from the headset.

Insert the plastic spudger in between the speaker and the headset directly in line with one of the exposed screws of the headset casing, since that is where the four clamps that hold the speaker to the headset are located. These clamps are not visible until after speaker removal.

Make sure to insert the spudger in between the foam buffer-ring and the headset casing instead of in between the speaker and the foam buffer-ring.

Reassembly may be tricky, there is one clamp smaller than others, so you have to align it correctly.

Step 5

  • Cut both wires connecting the speaker to the headset by using a wire stripper or pair of scissors.
  • Cut as close as possible to the connections on the speaker circuit board.

Cut both wires connecting the speaker to the headset by using a wire stripper or pair of scissors.

Cut as close as possible to the connections on the speaker circuit board.

Step 6

              Speaker Casing
  • Use the Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove all four 9mm screws.
  • Rotate the screwdriver counterclockwise when removing each screw.

Use the Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove all four 9mm screws.

Rotate the screwdriver counterclockwise when removing each screw.

Step 7

  • Pull the casing upwards to remove it from the headset.
  • If you are removing the casing on the side of the microphone, slide the casing towards you along the length of the microphone until the casing is completely removed.

Pull the casing upwards to remove it from the headset.

If you are removing the casing on the side of the microphone, slide the casing towards you along the length of the microphone until the casing is completely removed.

Step 8

              Microphone
  • Slide the speaker case laterally along the length of the microphone until the casing is completely detached from the headset.

Slide the speaker case laterally along the length of the microphone until the casing is completely detached from the headset.

Step 9

  • Use the Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 9 mm screws circled in red.
  • Rotate the screwdriver in a counterclockwise direction to remove each screw.
  • There is a total of four 9mm screws that must be unscrewed.
  • While unscrewing the spinning-wheel apparatus, remove only one wheel to free the microphone cable.
  • When removing the two-screw anchoring piece, slide it off of the broken microphone and make sure to slide the piece back on to the new microphone before soldering.

Use the Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 9 mm screws circled in red.

Rotate the screwdriver in a counterclockwise direction to remove each screw.

There is a total of four 9mm screws that must be unscrewed.

While unscrewing the spinning-wheel apparatus, remove only one wheel to free the microphone cable.

When removing the two-screw anchoring piece, slide it off of the broken microphone and make sure to slide the piece back on to the new microphone before soldering.

Step 10

  • Pull the microphone out towards you until it is no longer confined within the headset.

Pull the microphone out towards you until it is no longer confined within the headset.

Step 11

  • Pull the plastic attachment with the screw-hole away from the rubber microphone casing to expose the microphone wire.
  • Cut the microphone wire as close to the rubber microphone casing as possible to give enough wire to work with for re-soldering the new microphone to the headset.

Pull the plastic attachment with the screw-hole away from the rubber microphone casing to expose the microphone wire.

Cut the microphone wire as close to the rubber microphone casing as possible to give enough wire to work with for re-soldering the new microphone to the headset.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                                                                                      6 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 2 other contributors 


                    Karissa Sealey

Member since: 03/24/2017

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Team

                       Baylor, Team S5-G3, Williams Spring 2017                        

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                                            8 Guides authored

BeN KazaV - Sep 16, 2017

Reply

Hey, Please answer I need your help. Where can I buy only the microphone?

Yoshiharu Sakurai - Jan 3, 2018

Reply

I’ve come so far as the last picture but is it possible to post a picture of the cirquit board? as to where to solder the microphone to ( wich points ) since all my wires came unudone i cant tell i tried looking online for a schematic no luck.

is it possible to post a picture of the cirquit board with locations where components need to be soldered on to? all my connections became undone so im trying to figure out where each of them is attached i cannot find any schematic online.

Michael Engesgaard - Jul 24, 2018

Reply

Nice guide. But not very useful, since I can’t find any place to buy a new microphone. Has anyone found a place to buy a replacement?

gary600 - Aug 14, 2018

Reply

I was able to do this repair (on the non-Chroma version) without using a spudger or cutting the speaker wires by just poking through the black paper around the speaker to get access to the screws, skipping steps 4 and 5.