Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

11

Time Required

                          15 minutes - 1 hour

Sections

1

  • Wiring
  • 11 steps

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2

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Introduction

Please note solder (even the lead-free kind) is a toxic chemical, and therefore you should not inhale the fumes! Also, do not eat or drink anything after handling solder before thoroughly washing your hands.

What you need

Step 1

              Wiring
  • Pull the top-left corner of the foam padding up and to the left, and then pull it away from the frame.

Pull the top-left corner of the foam padding up and to the left, and then pull it away from the frame.

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Step 2

  • Remove five screws using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
  • Pull the blue panel off of the ear piece.
  • Separate these screws for ease of reassembly, as the second layer are a different size!

Remove five screws using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

Pull the blue panel off of the ear piece.

Separate these screws for ease of reassembly, as the second layer are a different size!

Step 3

  • Flip up the microphone to get to the fifth screw in this layer.
  • Remove five screws using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

Flip up the microphone to get to the fifth screw in this layer.

Remove five screws using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

Step 4

  • Pull apart the casing to open it.
  • Most of the connections will be to the small circuit board against the outside piece.

Pull apart the casing to open it.

Most of the connections will be to the small circuit board against the outside piece.

Step 5

  • Evaluate the internal connections. There should be 6 wires soldered into the top of the board, and 6 wires soldered into the bottom of the board.
  • See the table in the images for the pin connections list. Pins marked with T are on the top half of the circuit board, and B are on the bottom.
  • The first color of each wire lists the color of the casing grouping the wires together. For the top half, the component the wire is coming from is listed first.

Evaluate the internal connections. There should be 6 wires soldered into the top of the board, and 6 wires soldered into the bottom of the board.

See the table in the images for the pin connections list. Pins marked with T are on the top half of the circuit board, and B are on the bottom.

The first color of each wire lists the color of the casing grouping the wires together. For the top half, the component the wire is coming from is listed first.

Step 6

  • Solder any severed connections. I recommend referencing How To Solder and Desolder Connections for how to do this!
  • If necessary, you may have to strip some of the casing to expose enough of the wires to be able to reconnect them. You can get away with using scissors if nothing else, but I recommend using a wire stripper for this purpose, as instructed in Wire Stripping.
  • Solder is a toxic substance, so do not inhale it. Do not eat or drink anything after handling solder until after you have thoroughly washed your hands.
  • The wires will get hot very quickly on contact with the iron, so be quick and careful not to burn yourself.

Solder any severed connections. I recommend referencing How To Solder and Desolder Connections for how to do this!

If necessary, you may have to strip some of the casing to expose enough of the wires to be able to reconnect them. You can get away with using scissors if nothing else, but I recommend using a wire stripper for this purpose, as instructed in Wire Stripping.

Solder is a toxic substance, so do not inhale it. Do not eat or drink anything after handling solder until after you have thoroughly washed your hands.

The wires will get hot very quickly on contact with the iron, so be quick and careful not to burn yourself.

Step 7

  • After you have finished soldering all connections, test the headset by plugging it into a computer, and check each speaker and the mic. If it still doesn’t work, you may not have soldered it correctly, or there might be another problem in the headset or cable.

After you have finished soldering all connections, test the headset by plugging it into a computer, and check each speaker and the mic. If it still doesn’t work, you may not have soldered it correctly, or there might be another problem in the headset or cable.

Step 8

  • Place the casing back together, and flip over to get to the screw holes.

Place the casing back together, and flip over to get to the screw holes.

Step 9

  • Insert and tighten the bottom layer of screws using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

Insert and tighten the bottom layer of screws using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

Step 10

  • Insert and tighten top layer of screws using a #1 Phillips screwdriver.

Insert and tighten top layer of screws using a #1 Phillips screwdriver.

Step 11

  • Replace foam padding by sliding the back of the padding over the top of the speakers in a downward motion, then pulling the bottom edges of the pads over the bottom of the speakers.
  • Don’t forget to thoroughly wash your hands after putting away the solder!

Replace foam padding by sliding the back of the padding over the top of the speakers in a downward motion, then pulling the bottom edges of the pads over the bottom of the speakers.

Don’t forget to thoroughly wash your hands after putting away the solder!

Your headset should now be in working order and in one piece! Enjoy!

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                    Merddyn Sheeley

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                       University of North Texas, Team S1-G25, Raign Spring 2021                        

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