Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

5

Time Required

                          20 - 50 minutes

Sections

1

  • Reloop RP-4000 M3D Disassembly / Repair
  • 5 steps

Flags

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

  • BackReloop RP-4000 M3D

  • Full Screen

  • Options

  • History

  • Save to Favorites

  • Download PDF

  • Edit

  • Translate

  • Get Shareable Link

  • Embed This Guide

  • Notify Me of Changes

  • Stop Notifications

Introduction

The disassembling showed a loosen electromagnetic coil. After fixing this the turntable was working perfect again.

Before you start:

  • Unplug all cables - Otherwise risk of death by electrical shock

  • Know (at least a little) what you are doing

What you need

Step 1

              Reloop RP-4000 M3D Disassembly / Repair
  • First of all you have to remove the needle, slipmate and the plate. Remove the turntable plate by lifting it up. It rests on a cone at the center axis. It will get loose with a plopp.

First of all you have to remove the needle, slipmate and the plate. Remove the turntable plate by lifting it up. It rests on a cone at the center axis. It will get loose with a plopp.

1024

Step 2

              Open the housing
  • Pull up the small cover plate for the “remote control start/stop” plug allocated at the backside. It is fixed with double-sided adhesive tape
  • For turning around the turntable put maybe two books beside the main axis . So that the device is not resting at the main axis either then the tone arm!
  • Loosen 8 screws with a Phillips screwdriver at the bottum of the turntabel. (signed red in picture).
  • Be aware that under every screw a spacing ring is allocated, the will fall away while opening the housing. (It is not a big problem during reassembling later)

Pull up the small cover plate for the “remote control start/stop” plug allocated at the backside. It is fixed with double-sided adhesive tape

For turning around the turntable put maybe two books beside the main axis . So that the device is not resting at the main axis either then the tone arm!

Loosen 8 screws with a Phillips screwdriver at the bottum of the turntabel. (signed red in picture).

Be aware that under every screw a spacing ring is allocated, the will fall away while opening the housing. (It is not a big problem during reassembling later)

Step 3

              A Look inside
  • 1st impression: looks cheap
  • blue: Audio cabeling from tone-arm to cinch cable.
  • green: light an switch
  • yellow: Start/Stop and speed setting pcb.
  • red: The direct-drive on a pcb under a metal housing.

1st impression: looks cheap

blue: Audio cabeling from tone-arm to cinch cable.

green: light an switch

yellow: Start/Stop and speed setting pcb.

red: The direct-drive on a pcb under a metal housing.

Step 4

              Direct-Drive disassembly
  • Tilt the housing for loosen the 4 phillips screws at the top (marked yellow).
  • unplug the blue cable
  • unplug the white cable
  • unwrap the yellow cable-pack
  • loosen the last phillips screw holding the drive-pcb.

Tilt the housing for loosen the 4 phillips screws at the top (marked yellow).

unplug the blue cable

unplug the white cable

unwrap the yellow cable-pack

loosen the last phillips screw holding the drive-pcb.

Step 5

              Direct-Drive disassembly 2
  • After removing the last srcew you can lift and turn the PCB. The Drive Axis (Pin) with its housing is held to the PCB by megnetic force. You can lift it up.
  • Here i found my problem; One of the 6 coils was loose and the cable was broken from the soldering. I checked the coil with a multimeter (continuity check - beep). The coil was despite some scratches still good and with the signs on the pcb i was able to solder the coil-cable back in place.
  • For the attachment of the coil to the pcb i choose a strong but still a little flexible glue (“UHU Kraft Alleskleber”).

After removing the last srcew you can lift and turn the PCB. The Drive Axis (Pin) with its housing is held to the PCB by megnetic force. You can lift it up.

Here i found my problem; One of the 6 coils was loose and the cable was broken from the soldering. I checked the coil with a multimeter (continuity check - beep). The coil was despite some scratches still good and with the signs on the pcb i was able to solder the coil-cable back in place.

For the attachment of the coil to the pcb i choose a strong but still a little flexible glue (“UHU Kraft Alleskleber”).

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      2 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 


                    Felix Cies.

Member since: 11/13/2017

530 Reputation

                                      2 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       10







                                                        +7 more badges

Turi Wiki - Jan 9, 2022

Reply

Hi friend,

I purchased an RP 8000 mk2 turntable from USA and had it shipped to Australia. The USA unit is 115 volts but I put 240 volts through it and now it won’t power up. I have since brought a step down power supply to use if I can repair the unit.

I was told in a forum that another guy done the same thing and all he did was get the 115 volt power supply replaced. After replacement he said the unit worked fine. I can’t confirm this.

Would putting 240 volts through my unit damage anything else? or would it be just as simple as replacing the power supply and it will work again as the other gentleman claimed?

Regards,

Turi

turi.wiki@gmail.com