Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

13

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

2

  • Saitek X52 Pro Disassembly
  • 5 steps
  • Saitek/logitech X52 Pro/not pro Wiring Replacement
  • 8 steps

Flags

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Grammar Police

Embrace your inner English teacher and help improve this guide’s grammar!

  • BackSaitek X52 Pro

  • Full Screen

  • Options

  • History

  • Save to Favorites

  • Download PDF

  • Edit

  • Translate

  • Get Shareable Link

  • Embed This Guide

  • Notify Me of Changes

  • Stop Notifications

Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Get your tools

Patience :)

You need 2 small screw drives with a Phillips (cross) PH1 head and Torx (star) T10 head.

A list of screw drive heads can be hound here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scr…

1024

Step 2

              Open the Joystick - Unscrewing
  • Please take a moment and note how your joystick is assembled and all the parts that can be dettached. I recommend taking a few photos before dismantling it.
  • With the Phillips screwdrive unscrew the #1 to #4 screws in Fig. 1.
  • Using the Torx T10 head, unscrew the #5 (Fig. 1), #6, #7 and #8 screws (Fig. 2)
  • Screws 5 & 6 have a larger thread pace than 7 & 8, although the heads are the same. So please take care when you screw them back on (Fig. 3).
  • Using your hand, unscrew #9 (Fig. 2). Please note that you cannot completely remove this screw, but you don’t need to do this anyway.

Please take a moment and note how your joystick is assembled and all the parts that can be dettached. I recommend taking a few photos before dismantling it.

With the Phillips screwdrive unscrew the #1 to #4 screws in Fig. 1.

Using the Torx T10 head, unscrew the #5 (Fig. 1), #6, #7 and #8 screws (Fig. 2)

Screws 5 & 6 have a larger thread pace than 7 & 8, although the heads are the same. So please take care when you screw them back on (Fig. 3).

Using your hand, unscrew #9 (Fig. 2). Please note that you cannot completely remove this screw, but you don’t need to do this anyway.

Step 3

              Open the Joystick - Removing the bracket and the cover
  • Carefully remove the plastic bracket and the support holding the “Pinkie trigger” by pushing it towards the trigger (Fig. 4).
  • DO NOT force its removal, or you can break it.
  • Be careful not to break the Pinkie trigger wire!
  • Remove the stick cover that will expose the contacts and wiring (Fig. 5)

Carefully remove the plastic bracket and the support holding the “Pinkie trigger” by pushing it towards the trigger (Fig. 4).

DO NOT force its removal, or you can break it.

Be careful not to break the Pinkie trigger wire!

Remove the stick cover that will expose the contacts and wiring (Fig. 5)

Step 4

              Fixing it
  • Note the small metal plate.
  • Bend it just a little from the middle so that pushing the trigger actually pushes the small blue switch inside the stick.
  • Test the trigger before putting back the plastic cover
  • Remember when screwing the screws that 5&6 go to the bottom sides and 7&8 go at the top.

Note the small metal plate.

Bend it just a little from the middle so that pushing the trigger actually pushes the small blue switch inside the stick.

Test the trigger before putting back the plastic cover

Remember when screwing the screws that 5&6 go to the bottom sides and 7&8 go at the top.

Step 5

  • Note: Inside the trigger there is two screws which can be used instead of either extend or retract the pin that presses the metal plate. Try adjusting this first.

Note: Inside the trigger there is two screws which can be used instead of either extend or retract the pin that presses the metal plate. Try adjusting this first.

Step 6

              Saitek/logitech X52 Pro/not pro Wiring Replacement
  • Grabbed an old IDE cable, and harvested the wire. kind of a pain to thread the wire through. In the end, I seperated 2 x 5 wire ribbon, 1x2 wire, and 1x3 wire. There are 2 posts in the shaft. The upper one likes to come out, but don’t let it.(Edit, seperate all your wires if you’re using ide ribbon. had to redo everything. because i didn’t)
  • This metal shaft(circled), keeps on causing my wires to break.(also, logitech is being stingy on wire…) sick of soldering them back together, and the replacements I used where a bit thick, now can’t find the broken wire, so replacing the whole thing.(wasn’t a broken wire, but a loose contact in the plug but oh well. needed to be done)

Grabbed an old IDE cable, and harvested the wire. kind of a pain to thread the wire through. In the end, I seperated 2 x 5 wire ribbon, 1x2 wire, and 1x3 wire. There are 2 posts in the shaft. The upper one likes to come out, but don’t let it.(Edit, seperate all your wires if you’re using ide ribbon. had to redo everything. because i didn’t)

This metal shaft(circled), keeps on causing my wires to break.(also, logitech is being stingy on wire…) sick of soldering them back together, and the replacements I used where a bit thick, now can’t find the broken wire, so replacing the whole thing.(wasn’t a broken wire, but a loose contact in the plug but oh well. needed to be done)

Step 7

  • once you’ve done the disassembly guide, remove these 2 screws.(thin screws) With a little twist, you can removed the joystick handle from the base. The roll pot just slides off once you’ve detached the stick.
  • Metal pin(in yellow) goes through the slot. you have to align the floating part below the shaft, twisted a little bit, and hold the spring down at the same time. This is probably the hardest part of the reassembly. you can practice without the roll pot installed, but roll pot must be installed for final assembly.

once you’ve done the disassembly guide, remove these 2 screws.(thin screws) With a little twist, you can removed the joystick handle from the base. The roll pot just slides off once you’ve detached the stick.

Metal pin(in yellow) goes through the slot. you have to align the floating part below the shaft, twisted a little bit, and hold the spring down at the same time. This is probably the hardest part of the reassembly. you can practice without the roll pot installed, but roll pot must be installed for final assembly.

Step 8

  • remove these 2 screws, and the pcb will come out.
  • disconnect pinkie button.(in yellow)

remove these 2 screws, and the pcb will come out.

disconnect pinkie button.(in yellow)

Step 9

  • trigger switch wires(desoldering to make this easier)

trigger switch wires(desoldering to make this easier)

Step 10

  • the wires to desolder. will finish later and upload results, but this should help anyone looking for these pics. I couldn’t find any.

the wires to desolder. will finish later and upload results, but this should help anyone looking for these pics. I couldn’t find any.

Step 11

  • pcb pinouts p5 on base pcb is actually on the other row, same position.

pcb pinouts p5 on base pcb is actually on the other row, same position.

Step 12

  • finished. side note, the female end was actually loose, so had to remove from white plug and squeeze the contacts back together.(used a dental pick to lift the tab that holds the contact in place.
  • hot glue is very useful here, but not absolutely necessary. But I highly recommend for the shaft in the base as seen here.also doesn’t hurt to hot glue the pcb wires as well(circled)
  • hot glue seen in base, is a previous repair.(circled yellow)

finished. side note, the female end was actually loose, so had to remove from white plug and squeeze the contacts back together.(used a dental pick to lift the tab that holds the contact in place.

hot glue is very useful here, but not absolutely necessary. But I highly recommend for the shaft in the base as seen here.also doesn’t hurt to hot glue the pcb wires as well(circled)

hot glue seen in base, is a previous repair.(circled yellow)

Step 13

  • You’ll need to have decent eyesight for this.(or magnification) Get a dental pick or a needle, or something with a sharp edge(a knife does work as well) lift up the tab that holds the contact in place, and pull the wire out.
  • The contact will have 2 sides that have become loose on the pin, so squeeze them together. I used my fingernails, but you can also use tweezers
  • This was my actual problem, THIS TIME, and it’s the first time this happened on this stick for me. 99% or the time, it’s been a broken wire. My problem was the ground wire contact.

You’ll need to have decent eyesight for this.(or magnification) Get a dental pick or a needle, or something with a sharp edge(a knife does work as well) lift up the tab that holds the contact in place, and pull the wire out.

The contact will have 2 sides that have become loose on the pin, so squeeze them together. I used my fingernails, but you can also use tweezers

This was my actual problem, THIS TIME, and it’s the first time this happened on this stick for me. 99% or the time, it’s been a broken wire. My problem was the ground wire contact.

**THIS GUIDE ASSUMES YOU KNOW HOW TO SOLDER. Through hole and joining wires.If you don’t, youtube can help, and I suggest you practice on things you don’t care about first.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 


                    Curtis Nixon

Member since: 12/01/2019

210 Reputation

                                      1 Guide authored                  



                       Badges:
                       5







                                                        +2 more badges

Derek W - Sep 17, 2022

Reply

any chance at just a couple pictures with circles showing which pots are for which axes on the stick? I just need to figure out which one is for Yaw so I can try and repair/clean mine but can’t find pictures or guide anywhere for what exactly I’m going to be looking for once I’m in there.