Difficulty

Easy

Steps

4

Time Required

                          15 minutes

Sections

1

  • Glass fuse
  • 4 steps

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  • BackHayward Salt and Swim 3C

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Introduction

Step 1

              Unplug device
  • Unplug the device. This is the most important step! Do not disassemble it, before that!

Unplug the device. This is the most important step! Do not disassemble it, before that!

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Step 2

              Take the control unit from the wall
  • The control unit needs to be disassembled. You need to unscrew it from the wall or wherever you placed it. The cell can stay in place.

The control unit needs to be disassembled. You need to unscrew it from the wall or wherever you placed it. The cell can stay in place.

Step 3

              Diassemble control unit
  • There are 8 screws on the back of the control unit. Unscrew them and open the device carefully. There is a flex cable between the cover and back plate.
  • Unplug the flex cable and remember the orientation. It should be pretty obvious how to reassemble it. There is even an small arrow and white dot on the board for reassemblement.

There are 8 screws on the back of the control unit. Unscrew them and open the device carefully. There is a flex cable between the cover and back plate.

Unplug the flex cable and remember the orientation. It should be pretty obvious how to reassemble it. There is even an small arrow and white dot on the board for reassemblement.

Step 4

              Replace the glass fuse
  • The glass fuse can be wiggled out with a screw driver. Just be careful not to break the glass.
  • My glass fuse was a 250 V, 16A (5 X 20mm). This might be different with your device, so make sure you have the same one.
  • Put the new fuse in and hopefully this will fix the “no led” problem.

The glass fuse can be wiggled out with a screw driver. Just be careful not to break the glass.

My glass fuse was a 250 V, 16A (5 X 20mm). This might be different with your device, so make sure you have the same one.

Put the new fuse in and hopefully this will fix the “no led” problem.

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                                                                                      One other person completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 


                    Samuel Reinfelder

Member since: 05/25/2020

139 Reputation

                                      1 Guide authored                  



                       Badges:
                       3

ANTHONY BASS - Jun 15, 2021

Reply

I have same unit except it has a 20A yellow horseshoe fuse. Changed it and it started up then after about 5 minutes it had no LEDs again. Guess I blew new fuse so now what?? Any source for troubleshooting PCB, cable or cell? What would cause the fuse to blow?

Crispin Bailey - Sep 11, 2021

Reply

Had the same issue. Tried replacing the fuse but it only lasted a minute before blowing again. Tech came out and isolated the issue, determining that the salt cell was leaking water above the cap somehow (still not sure how, o-ring was fine), causing a short circuit. No idea how or why that started happening, but it was just purchased a couple months ago so hopefully it’s under warranty. Got an old dead cell in place for now till I can get a new one… not generating chlorine but at least it’s not blowing fuses!

Joseph Friscia - May 14, 2022

Reply

I have the same problem. I also have the yellow 20 amp fuse. We replaced the fuse and … nothing. I should mention that our salt and swim isn’t currently on the pool as we haven’t opened the pool yet. Our problem started last year at the end of the season. We had gone on vacation and used timers to turn the pool pump and Hayward salt and swim on and off. We checked it for 3 days before we left and it was working fine. When we came back the pool was clear but the unit would not turn on. No lights came on at all. We had returned at the end of the season and it was time to close the pool up. So we disassembled everything and closed up the pool. Thinking we would fix the problem this year before opening the pool. The control box and cell appear fine. We thought it may be that the fuse had blown. I’ve looked for a Hayward repair center in our area but none to be found. My brother had a similar problem but it turned out to be the thermistor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (Posted 5/14/2022)