Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 5G Battery And Frame Assembly Replacement Repair Guide

OEM Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

Screen Removal
18 steps
Frame Bracket (Samsung)
3 steps
USB-C Charging Port and Daughterboard
8 steps
Motherboard
16 steps
Battery and Frame Assembly
26 steps

Flags

Provided Hardware

A manufacturer provided iFixit with this device or component.

OEM Guide

iFixit collaborated with the manufacturer to make this guide.

BackSamsung Galaxy Tab S7+ 5G
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Introduction

Note: this guide is for the 5G version. For the Wi-Fi version, click here.

This guide is written for the genuine Samsung battery and frame assembly. The assembly consists of frame with the battery pre-installed in it. Be sure you have the right part before you begin the repair.

In order to replace the battery and frame assembly, you must remove the screen. The screen has sensitive components, so there’s a risk you’ll damage it during the procedure. Be sure to apply plenty of heat and be extremely careful during the prying stage.

Before you begin, refer to the Samsung Self-Repair document for safety information.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. Before disassembling your device, completely discharge the battery. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.

Note: Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

What you need

Step 1

              Heat the bottom edge

Completely power off your device before you begin.
Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the device for three minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
The display adhesive of the Galaxy Tab S7+ is extremely strong, and it’s likely you need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times before starting the display removal and during the removal procedure.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

Completely power off your device before you begin.

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the device for three minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

The display adhesive of the Galaxy Tab S7+ is extremely strong, and it’s likely you need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times before starting the display removal and during the removal procedure.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

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Step 2

              Screen removal information

While you’re waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following:
There’s a long circuit board attached to the screen that sits parallel to the bottom edge.
Don’t insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.
This image shows an example of the display separating from the glass panel.
Don’t insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the display.

While you’re waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following:

There’s a long circuit board attached to the screen that sits parallel to the bottom edge.

Don’t insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.

This image shows an example of the display separating from the glass panel.

Don’t insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the display.

Step 3

              Insert an opening pick

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the frame and the screen.
Don’t insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the frame and the screen.

Don’t insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 4

              Separate the bottom adhesive

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the bottom edge of the device towards the bottom-right corner.

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.

Slide the new pick along the bottom edge of the device towards the bottom-right corner.

Step 5

              Heat the right edge

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the device for two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the device for two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 6

              Separate the bottom-right corner adhesive

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-right corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-right corner of the device.

Step 7

              Separate the right adhesive

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Don’t insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the components along the right edge.
Slide the new pick along the right edge of the device towards the top-right corner.

Don’t insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the components along the right edge.

Slide the new pick along the right edge of the device towards the top-right corner.

Step 8

              Heat the top edge

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the device for two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the device for two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 9

              Separate the top-right corner adhesive

Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the device.

Step 10

              Separate the top adhesive

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the top edge of the device towards the top-left corner.

Slide the new pick along the top edge of the device towards the top-left corner.

Step 11

              Heat the left edge

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 12

              Separate the top-left corner adhesive

Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the device.

Step 13

              Separate the left adhesive

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the left edge of the device towards the bottom-left corner.

Slide the new pick along the left edge of the device towards the bottom-left corner.

Step 14

              Separate the bottom-left corner adhesive

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
At this point, the perimeter of the screen should be separated from the frame. If there’s still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to cut the adhesive again.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the device.

At this point, the perimeter of the screen should be separated from the frame. If there’s still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to cut the adhesive again.

Step 15

              Remove the screen

Don’t try to remove the screen all the way yet; it’s still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
With the top of the device facing you, lift the bottom edge of the screen up and away from you like you’re opening a book.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
Don’t twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your tablet and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your tablet back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Use some high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any adhesive residue.
If you’re using Samsung custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. If you’re using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

Don’t try to remove the screen all the way yet; it’s still connected to the frame by a flex cable.

With the top of the device facing you, lift the bottom edge of the screen up and away from you like you’re opening a book.

Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.

Don’t twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your tablet and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your tablet back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Use some high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any adhesive residue.

If you’re using Samsung custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. If you’re using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

Step 16

              Disconnect the display cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable’s press connector secured to the screen.
Be careful not to damage the wide display flex ribbons on the bottom edge of the screen.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable’s press connector secured to the screen.

Be careful not to damage the wide display flex ribbons on the bottom edge of the screen.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 17

Use tweezers, or you fingers, to hold the display cable in place.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor’s press connector attached to the display cable.
Take note of the display cable’s position—you’ll need to bend it in the same way when connecting a new screen.

Use tweezers, or you fingers, to hold the display cable in place.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor’s press connector attached to the display cable.

Take note of the display cable’s position—you’ll need to bend it in the same way when connecting a new screen.

Step 18

              Remove the screen

Remove the screen from the frame.

Remove the screen from the frame.

Step 19

              Unfasten the frame bracket

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the fifty 3 mm-long screws securing the frame bracket to the frame.
The third photo has the same screws marked by quadrant. Use this photo during reassembly to help account for all the screws:
Bottom-left = 9 screws
Bottom-right = 14 screws
Top-right = 12 screws
Top-left = 15 screws
If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3229.

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the fifty 3 mm-long screws securing the frame bracket to the frame.

The third photo has the same screws marked by quadrant. Use this photo during reassembly to help account for all the screws:

Bottom-left = 9 screws

Bottom-right = 14 screws

Top-right = 12 screws

Top-left = 15 screws

If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3229.

Step 20

              Remove the frame bracket

Lift the frame bracket away from the frame, making sure to thread the display cable through its socket.

Lift the frame bracket away from the frame, making sure to thread the display cable through its socket.

Step 21

              Disconnect the battery

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 22

              Disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 23

              Unfasten the charging daughterboard

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two 2 mm screws securing the charging daughterboard to the frame.
If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3298.

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two 2 mm screws securing the charging daughterboard to the frame.

If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3298.

Step 24

              Reposition the charging daughterboard

Insert a spudger between the charging daughterboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the clips securing the charging daughterboard.

Insert a spudger between the charging daughterboard and the frame.

Pry up with the spudger to release the clips securing the charging daughterboard.

Step 25

Use your fingers to pull the charging daughterboard from its slot in the frame.
Turn the charging board upside down, making sure not to twist the coaxial cables too far.

Use your fingers to pull the charging daughterboard from its slot in the frame.

Turn the charging board upside down, making sure not to twist the coaxial cables too far.

Step 26

              Disconnect the interconnect cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable’s press connector secured to the charging daughterboard.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the interconnect cable.
Set the cable aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable’s press connector secured to the charging daughterboard.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the interconnect cable.

Set the cable aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 27

              Disconnect the coaxial cables

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the brown and green coaxial cable from the bottom of the daughterboard.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the brown and green coaxial cable from the bottom of the daughterboard.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 28

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the white coaxial cable from the top of the daughterboard.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the white coaxial cable from the top of the daughterboard.

Step 29

              Remove the charging daughterboard

Remove the daughterboard from the frame.
During reassembly, reconnect the interconnect cable to the daughterboard before fastening the screws.

Remove the daughterboard from the frame.

During reassembly, reconnect the interconnect cable to the daughterboard before fastening the screws.

Step 30

              Disconnect the display cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.
Repeat for the fingerprint sensor cable attached to display cable.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Repeat for the fingerprint sensor cable attached to display cable.

Step 31

              Remove the display cable

Use your fingers to remove the display cable.
Set the cable aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Use your fingers to remove the display cable.

Step 32

              Disconnect the keyboard dock port cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the keyboard dock port cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the keyboard dock port cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 33

              Remove the front camera

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera’s press connector secured to the motherboard.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the front camera.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the front camera.

Step 34

              Disconnect the microSD card reader

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the microSD card reader’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the microSD card reader’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 35

              Disconnect the left coaxial cables

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the green coaxial cable from the left side of the motherboard.
Repeat this process for the brown coaxial cable.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the green coaxial cable from the left side of the motherboard.

Repeat this process for the brown coaxial cable.

Step 36

              Disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 37

              Remove the 5G mmWave antenna

Use tweezers to pull the antenna out of the frame by its bracket.
Remove the 5G mmWave antenna.
Set the antenna aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Use tweezers to pull the antenna out of the frame by its bracket.

Remove the 5G mmWave antenna.

Set the antenna aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 38

              Disconnect the rear camera

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera’s two press connectors secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera’s two press connectors secured to the motherboard.

Step 39

              Disconnect the power button cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the power button cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the power button cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 40

              Disconnect the bottom-right coaxial cable

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the bottom-right loudspeaker’s yellow coaxial cable from the motherboard.
Take care not to puncture the battery with your tool—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the bottom-right loudspeaker’s yellow coaxial cable from the motherboard.

Take care not to puncture the battery with your tool—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 41

              Reposition the bottom-right coaxial cable

Pull the coaxial cable away from the frame, making sure the cable is completely unthreaded from the motherboard.

Pull the coaxial cable away from the frame, making sure the cable is completely unthreaded from the motherboard.

Step 42

              Disconnect the interconnect cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable’s press connector secured to the motherboard.

Step 43

              Disconnect the top-right coaxial cables

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the top-right loudspeaker’s blue coaxial cable from the motherboard.
Repeat this process for the white coaxial cable.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the top-right loudspeaker’s blue coaxial cable from the motherboard.

Repeat this process for the white coaxial cable.

Step 44

              Unfasten the motherboard

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the three 2 mm screws securing the motherboard to the frame.
If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3298.

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the three 2 mm screws securing the motherboard to the frame.

If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3298.

Step 45

              Remove the motherboard

Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the motherboard from its clips.
Remove the motherboard.
During reassembly, refasten the motherboard screws first to properly align it into place, then reconnect the cables.

Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.

Pry up with the spudger to release the motherboard from its clips.

Remove the motherboard.

During reassembly, refasten the motherboard screws first to properly align it into place, then reconnect the cables.

Step 46

              Unfasten the antenna board

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the antenna board to the frame.
If you’re reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3298.

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the antenna board to the frame.

Step 47

              Remove the antenna board

Insert a spudger into a gap between the antenna board and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the antenna board from the frame.
Remove the antenna board.

Insert a spudger into a gap between the antenna board and the frame.

Pry up with the spudger to separate the antenna board from the frame.

Remove the antenna board.

Step 48

              Heat the keyboard dock port cable

The keyboard dock port cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Apply a heated iOpener to the top of the device for 90 seconds.

The keyboard dock port cable is lightly adhered to the frame.

Apply a heated iOpener to the top of the device for 90 seconds.

Step 49

              Separate the keyboard dock cable adhesive

Insert the tip of an opening pick between the frame and the keyboard dock port cable’s metal bracket.
Rotate the pick while prying up to separate the adhesive.

Insert the tip of an opening pick between the frame and the keyboard dock port cable’s metal bracket.

Rotate the pick while prying up to separate the adhesive.

Step 50

              Remove the keyboard dock port cable

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the keyboard dock port cable directly out of its slot.
Remove the keyboard dock port cable.
Set the cable aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the keyboard dock port cable directly out of its slot.

Remove the keyboard dock port cable.

Step 51

              Heat the left edge

The bottom-left loudspeaker’s flex cable is secured to the frame by adhesive. Use heat to avoid tearing the connector.
Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

The bottom-left loudspeaker’s flex cable is secured to the frame by adhesive. Use heat to avoid tearing the connector.

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 52

              Separate the connector's adhesive

Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left loudspeaker’s copper connector pads and the frame.
Pry up while slicing the adhesive to separate the pad from the frame.

Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left loudspeaker’s copper connector pads and the frame.

Pry up while slicing the adhesive to separate the pad from the frame.

Step 53

Slice with the opening pick along the bottom of the connector’s cable to completely separate it from the frame.

Slice with the opening pick along the bottom of the connector’s cable to completely separate it from the frame.

Step 54

              Reposition the coaxial cables

Use your fingers to unroute the blue and white coaxial cables from their groove in the frame.

Use your fingers to unroute the blue and white coaxial cables from their groove in the frame.

Step 55

              Remove the loudspeaker

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.
Set the speaker aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.
During reassembly, rethread the blue coaxial cable after slotting the bottom-left speaker into your new frame.

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.

Remove the loudspeaker.

Set the speaker aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

During reassembly, rethread the blue coaxial cable after slotting the bottom-left speaker into your new frame.

Step 56

              Separate the top-left loudspeaker cable's adhesive

Insert an opening pick between the top-left loudspeaker cable and the frame.
Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the cable from the frame.

Insert an opening pick between the top-left loudspeaker cable and the frame.

Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the cable from the frame.

Step 57

              Remove the top-left loudspeaker

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the top-left loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the top-left loudspeaker.
Set the speaker aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the top-left loudspeaker from the frame.

Remove the top-left loudspeaker.

Step 58

              Heat the rear camera

The rear camera is secured to the frame by adhesive. Use heat to avoid damaging the camera.
Apply a heated iOpener to the top-left corner of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

The rear camera is secured to the frame by adhesive. Use heat to avoid damaging the camera.

Apply a heated iOpener to the top-left corner of the device for two minutes.

Step 59

              Separate the rear camera's adhesive

Insert an opening pick into a gap between the rear camera and the frame.
Rotate the pick around edges of the rear camera to slice the adhesive.

Insert an opening pick into a gap between the rear camera and the frame.

Rotate the pick around edges of the rear camera to slice the adhesive.

Step 60

              Remove the rear camera

Pry up with the pick to separate the rear camera from the frame.
Remove the rear camera.
Set the camera aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Pry up with the pick to separate the rear camera from the frame.

Remove the rear camera.

Set the camera aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 61

The top-right loudspeaker’s connector is secured to the frame by adhesive. Use heat to avoid tearing the connector.
Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

The top-right loudspeaker’s connector is secured to the frame by adhesive. Use heat to avoid tearing the connector.

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 62

              Separate loudspeaker cable's adhesive

Insert an opening pick between the loudspeaker’s connector pads and the frame.
Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the pads from the frame.

Insert an opening pick between the loudspeaker’s connector pads and the frame.

Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the pads from the frame.

Step 63

              Remove the loudspeaker

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.
Set the speaker aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.
During reassembly, rethread the green and brown coaxial cables after slotting the top-right speaker into your new frame.

During reassembly, rethread the green and brown coaxial cables after slotting the top-right speaker into your new frame.

Step 64

              Separate the bottom-right loudspeaker cable's adhesive

Insert an opening pick between the bottom-right loudspeaker cable and the frame.
Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the cable from the frame.

Insert an opening pick between the bottom-right loudspeaker cable and the frame.

Step 65

              Reposition the coaxial cable

Use your fingers to unroute the white coaxial cable from its groove in the frame.
You will need to transfer and rethread the white coaxial cable into your new frame.

Use your fingers to unroute the white coaxial cable from its groove in the frame.

You will need to transfer and rethread the white coaxial cable into your new frame.

Step 66

              Remove the bottom-right loudspeaker

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the bottom-right loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the bottom-right loudspeaker.
Set the speaker aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.
During reassembly, rethread the white coaxial cable after slotting the bottom-right speaker into your new frame.

Use a spudger to pry up and separate the bottom-right loudspeaker from the frame.

Remove the bottom-right loudspeaker.

During reassembly, rethread the white coaxial cable after slotting the bottom-right speaker into your new frame.

Step 67

              Separate the microSD card reader's adhesive

Insert a pick between the microSD reader’s connector pads and the frame.
Pry up while slicing the adhesive to separate the pads from the frame.

Insert a pick between the microSD reader’s connector pads and the frame.

Pry up while slicing the adhesive to separate the pads from the frame.

Step 68

Insert a pick between the bottom-right peg hole and the frame.
Rotate the pick along the peg hole’s perimeter to separate it from the frame.

Insert a pick between the bottom-right peg hole and the frame.

Rotate the pick along the peg hole’s perimeter to separate it from the frame.

Step 69

Insert a pick between the top of the microSD reader and the frame.
Rotate the pick around the perimeter of the microSD reader to slice the adhesive.

Insert a pick between the top of the microSD reader and the frame.

Rotate the pick around the perimeter of the microSD reader to slice the adhesive.

Step 70

              Remove the microSD card reader

At this point, the perimeter of the microSD card reader should be separated from the frame. If there’s still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to cut the adhesive again.
Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left peg hole and the frame.
Pry up with the pick to separate the microSD card reader from the frame.
Remove the microSD card reader.
Set the microSD card reader aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

At this point, the perimeter of the microSD card reader should be separated from the frame. If there’s still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to cut the adhesive again.

Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left peg hole and the frame.

Pry up with the pick to separate the microSD card reader from the frame.

Remove the microSD card reader.

Set the microSD card reader aside. You’ll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 71

              Only the battery and frame assembly remains

You’re now left with the battery and frame assembly.

You’re now left with the battery and frame assembly.

To reassemble your device, follow the instructions in reverse order and perform the opposite actions, e.g., “reattach” instead of “removing.” Skip steps that use heating and prying, and pay close attention to the 📌 bullets as you work through the steps.

After you’ve completed the repair, download the Samsung Members App from the Galaxy Store or the Play Store, and follow the Samsung Self-Repair document (beginning page 10) to make sure your device is fully functional.

Download the Self Repair Assistant on your device and follow the Samsung Self-Repair document (beginning page 11) to perform a battery cycle reset.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

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                    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

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