Samsung Ls32D85Ktsr Power Supply Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          15 - 30 minutes

Sections

Power Supply
11 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Power Supply

Here is the Samsung monitor LS32D85K sold as SD850
fairly clean and sleek design without frills
This one has a broken LCD as well but needed to check the power supply. Monitor powers on = power supply working

Here is the Samsung monitor LS32D85K sold as SD850

fairly clean and sleek design without frills

This one has a broken LCD as well but needed to check the power supply. Monitor powers on = power supply working

1024

Step 2

First is the removal of the plastic that covers the midsection of the back cover. Simply pull straight up on the midsection.
Continue to move along one side
until the end to release the snaps. No tools needed

First is the removal of the plastic that covers the midsection of the back cover. Simply pull straight up on the midsection.

Continue to move along one side

until the end to release the snaps. No tools needed

Step 3

Lastly unsnap the opposite side
Remove the cover to gain access to the stand.
The stand is fastened to the monitor by two (2) Philips head screws. Remove those

Lastly unsnap the opposite side

Remove the cover to gain access to the stand.

The stand is fastened to the monitor by two (2) Philips head screws. Remove those

Step 4

With the screws removed, tilt the with the screw holes up
now pull the stand back to release the two metal tabs to remove the stand.
On the top left corner of the back cover is a small release opening to insert either a plastic removal tool or similar. Here a flathead screwdriver was used. Insert it and gently lift it to release the first tab

With the screws removed, tilt the with the screw holes up

now pull the stand back to release the two metal tabs to remove the stand.

On the top left corner of the back cover is a small release opening to insert either a plastic removal tool or similar. Here a flathead screwdriver was used. Insert it and gently lift it to release the first tab

Step 5

move the tool along the top line to release more tabs all the way to the end
and finally along the sides. As the tool moves along the holding tabs will unsnap. Some areas required more of a lever action to release them. NO great force needed for this
Once all the tabs release the back will simply come off.

move the tool along the top line to release more tabs all the way to the end

and finally along the sides. As the tool moves along the holding tabs will unsnap. Some areas required more of a lever action to release them. NO great force needed for this

Once all the tabs release the back will simply come off.

Step 6

Lift the back cover of and out of the way will reveal the boards
Power board
Main board
T-Con board
On the top of the power board are two flat ribbon cables. Those are the backlight cables which need to be removed.

Lift the back cover of and out of the way will reveal the boards

Power board

Main board

T-Con board

On the top of the power board are two flat ribbon cables. Those are the backlight cables which need to be removed.

Step 7

Removal of the left cable by simply pulling on the white connector (never the cable)
Next remove the right backlight cable
On the side of the power board is a connector labeled with the number 10. The is the connection between the main board and the power board. Remove that cable

Removal of the left cable by simply pulling on the white connector (never the cable)

Next remove the right backlight cable

On the side of the power board is a connector labeled with the number 10. The is the connection between the main board and the power board. Remove that cable

Step 8

To release the cable from the connector, simply squeezing the two tabs on the side and a gentle pull on the connector will release the cable.
Interestingly enough the power board holder does not use any fasteners on the chassis etc. It is simply held in place by some adhesive strip.
Pulling the adhesive strip off and sliding the power board holder of the lip of the monitor, allows its removal.

To release the cable from the connector, simply squeezing the two tabs on the side and a gentle pull on the connector will release the cable.

Interestingly enough the power board holder does not use any fasteners on the chassis etc. It is simply held in place by some adhesive strip.

Pulling the adhesive strip off and sliding the power board holder of the lip of the monitor, allows its removal.

Step 9

Turn the power board loder over to get a good visual of the board. It is fastened with four (4) Philips head screws.
One (1) of the screws appears to hold the ground trap in place as well
Remove the three (3) screws first
Then remove the Philips head screw that holds the board and the ground strap in place

Turn the power board loder over to get a good visual of the board. It is fastened with four (4) Philips head screws.

One (1) of the screws appears to hold the ground trap in place as well

Remove the three (3) screws first

Then remove the Philips head screw that holds the board and the ground strap in place

Step 10

With all the screws removed angle teh board so as to free the two metal tabs on the side of the holder
Pull the board to the side and remove it
Here is the holder with what appears to be either a thermal pad or insulation pad.

With all the screws removed angle teh board so as to free the two metal tabs on the side of the holder

Pull the board to the side and remove it

Here is the holder with what appears to be either a thermal pad or insulation pad.

Step 11

Turn the board over to visualize the component part side.
Whenever one works on a power supply one must remember not to touch the components since the capacitors may still be charged and could cause fatal electrical shocks. Discharge the capacitors before working on the board.
There is a reason for all that goop. That is the MOSFET that appears to be the Achilles Heal of the power board.
That is a KF12N60 N CHANNEL MOS FIELD EFFECT TRANSISTOR.

Turn the board over to visualize the component part side.

Whenever one works on a power supply one must remember not to touch the components since the capacitors may still be charged and could cause fatal electrical shocks. Discharge the capacitors before working on the board.

There is a reason for all that goop. That is the MOSFET that appears to be the Achilles Heal of the power board.

That is a KF12N60 N CHANNEL MOS FIELD EFFECT TRANSISTOR.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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