Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

14

Time Required

                          1 hour

Sections

3

  • WIFI Card
  • 7 steps
  • Top Motherboard
  • 3 steps
  • Internal Power Supply
  • 4 steps

Flags

1

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Introduction

When working with electronics, it’s important to choose a tool that’s ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The metal spudger is great when you need serious prying power, but the regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.

What you need

Step 1

              WIFI Card
  • Start by using a spudger or plastic opening tool to remove the bottom cover.
  • When working with electronics, it’s important to choose a tool that’s ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.
  • Once enough of the glue is removed, peel the cover off by hand,

Start by using a spudger or plastic opening tool to remove the bottom cover.

When working with electronics, it’s important to choose a tool that’s ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.

Once enough of the glue is removed, peel the cover off by hand,

1024

Step 2

  • Remove the four 7.5mm length Philips head screws under the rubber cover.

Remove the four 7.5mm length Philips head screws under the rubber cover.

Step 3

  • Use a nylon spudger to unsnap the bottom from the sides.
  • Pry until the remaining three points are unsnapped.
  • Once unsnapped, lift the cover.

Use a nylon spudger to unsnap the bottom from the sides.

Pry until the remaining three points are unsnapped.

Once unsnapped, lift the cover.

Step 4

  • Remove the connection for the front buttons to fully remove the cover.

Remove the connection for the front buttons to fully remove the cover.

Step 5

  • Use a plastic opening tool or spudger to remove the adhesive covering the the WIFI connectors.
  • Gently pull the wires at the connection point to disconnect them from the motherboard.

Use a plastic opening tool or spudger to remove the adhesive covering the the WIFI connectors.

Gently pull the wires at the connection point to disconnect them from the motherboard.

Step 6

  • Remove the two pieces of glue holding the WIFI card in place.

Remove the two pieces of glue holding the WIFI card in place.

Step 7

  • Scrape the glued pad underneath the WIFI card to seperate the card from the board.
  • Push apart the two clips holding the WIFI card in the connection.
  • Pull the WIFI card out of the connection.
  • When putting the new WIFI card in, put the card in the connector first, then push downward until it clicks.

Scrape the glued pad underneath the WIFI card to seperate the card from the board.

Push apart the two clips holding the WIFI card in the connection.

Pull the WIFI card out of the connection.

When putting the new WIFI card in, put the card in the connector first, then push downward until it clicks.

Step 8

              Top Motherboard
  • Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw holding the board in place.

Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw holding the board in place.

Step 9

  • Flip the board over to access the Molex Cable.

Flip the board over to access the Molex Cable.

Step 10

  • Disconnect the Molex Cable from the top motherboard.

Disconnect the Molex Cable from the top motherboard.

Step 11

              Internal Power Supply
  • Remove foam protective insulator from the bottom board.

Remove foam protective insulator from the bottom board.

Step 12

  • Picture shows the side of the device.
  • Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw from the power supply motherboard.

Picture shows the side of the device.

Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw from the power supply motherboard.

Step 13

  • Remove the adhesive backed rear label by using a spudger.
  • Remove the two 8mm length screws as shown.

Remove the adhesive backed rear label by using a spudger.

Remove the two 8mm length screws as shown.

Step 14

  • Pull the power supply out of the back of the device.

Pull the power supply out of the back of the device.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Author

                                      with 8 other contributors 


                    Clark Snyder

Member since: 01/21/2016

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                                            4 Guides authored

meh - Jun 20, 2016

Reply

And where do you find a spare power supply ?

Steve Long - Jul 27, 2016

Reply

You’d probably just replace the 1800µƒ cap, which you can do without removing the board. Leave the wireless card attached to the top board when you carefully lift it out of the way. 99 times out of 100 if a PSU goes down it’s one or more capacitors.

Tomarang - Jul 31, 2016

Reply

My Sonos was fried by a thunderstrike recently.

More precisely: 3 parts on the power supply PCB: the fuse, that 1800 uF cap mentioned above and some other part that I’m having a hard time to identify:

It’s located pretty close to the fuse on the PCB, there labeled whith “TH1” and according to the symbol it’s some kind of varistor or thermistor. With the “TH1” label I’m inclined to bet my money on thermistor, some NTC probably.

From what little is left of its housing (green, round with a diameter of about 8mm) its caption once read “SCK 102”… or something similar. But that’s all I could find out.

Could anybody tell me more about this part and its dimensions?

When feeding the 3.3V and 14.V that the power supply PCB normaly provides from some lab power supply to the mainboard of the Sonos it works fine. So wether I’ll be able t resurect my Sonos depends on identifying and replacing this one little bugger…

Thanks a lot

Ber

Dirk de Vries - Sep 28, 2016

Reply

In my case, the 2A fuse and the MB8S Bridge rectifier were broken. Also my 14V output delivers 17.5V. The zener was not broken so I guess there are different versions.

Robert Bruce - Nov 6, 2016

Reply

Can you lick up +5 volts from power supply black/red?